Launch Into Spring Part 2
Complete safety inspection of the engine, hull, and other systems, We recommend utilizing a professional if you are not mechanically inclined.
In the Water
- Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for steady leaks and looseness. Some weeping or even an occasional drip should be evident at the engine-shaft stuffing box (not the rudder). If leaking can’t be stopped by tightening the nut, repack the gland. (Caution: Over-tightening the nut prevents leaking underway, which will burn out the packing material.)
- Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as needed. Don’t rely on a bilge pump to overcome a multitude of deck leaks.
Engines and Fuel Systems
- Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for indications of softness, brittleness, or cracking. Any that are suspect should be replaced with Coast Guard-approved J1527 hose. Check joints for leaks (or use your finger and look for stains under or around the fitting) and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps without rough edges.
- Inspect outer jacket. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean the cable must be replaced. (Note: Don’t try to remedy the problem by squirting lubricant into the cracks or wrapping duct tape around the outer jacket; most lubricants are incompatible and will only make things worse.
- Inspect all fuel-system components for leaks -- fuel tanks, fuel pumps, filters. A dry rag can be used at connections or trust your nose. Clamps should be snug and free of heavy rust.
- Clean fuel filters
- Exhaust manifolds should be removed and inspected every few years for corrosion, which could be restricting water flow.
- Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables. Loose connections can “arc,” which creates an enormous amount of heat and is a fire hazard. Studs, nuts, and washers should be copper -- not aluminum or steel. Dissimilar metals have the potential to cause galvanic corrosion. Problems ranging from a weak contact to arcing could be the result of poor washer choice. Wire brush batter terminals and fill cells with distilled water.
- Cooling hoses and fittings should fit snugly and be double-clamped. Hoses showing signs of age -- rot, stiffness, bulges, leaks, and/or cracking -- should be replaced.
- Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks.
Sailboat Rigging
- Fittings, especially swage fittings, should be inspected for cracks and rust. Wire halyards and running backstays also should be inspected for “fishhooks” and rust, which snag fingers and indicate that the standing rigging is nearing the end of its useful life. Ensure spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles.
- Remove tape on turnbuckles and lubricate threads (preferably with Teflon). Give the turnbuckle a twist or two to prevent mechanical freezing. Replace with fresh tape.
- Chainplates mounted through the deck should be caulked as necessary, preferably every two or three years. Leaks can cause problems, ranging from delaminated cores to rotted bulkheads. Hint: Remove ALL old caulking.