KEEPING YOUR BOAT CLEAN

The trick is to get the cleaning and maintenance finished so you can maximize your time on the water.

Fresh Water & Woolite

Eisenglass (clear flexible vinyl) should not be cleaned with an ammonia-based glass cleaner because the ammonia breaks it down and will dry it out. The best approach is to wash eisenglass with fresh water, add some Woolite for a second wash, then rinse. Dry the eisenglass with a soft cotton or microfiber cloth and apply 210 Plastic Cleaner or Plexus for long-lasting protection.

Waterline Wars

Nothing's worse than leaving the boat ramp with a dingy waterline stain, but there's no reason to let that nasty stain linger. After hauling the boat, soak a sponge in vinegar and wipe down the water stains. Some will disappear immediately; usually what remains will be gone by the time you get home. Some stains require other products

Skin Deep

Surface rust can be taken off metal and fiberglass with a paste made of water and baking soda (50-50). Rust that's more than skin deep, however, requires a potent cleaner containing oxalic acid. Find several to choose from at West Marine. Always remember to thoroughly rinse it away after the rust disappears because the acid can damage metals and fiberglass if left on too long.

Rain, Rain, Go Away

Use Rain-X on your boat's exterior glass. Once Rain-X is applied, the glass doesn't attract or retain hard water spots as easily, and unless in a downpour you  don't need to run the wipers because the water simply slips off the glass.

Tart Up Aluminum

Dissolve two tablespoons of cream of tartar in one quart of hot water, and use it as a polish with a soft cloth.

Preventive Maintenance

If you want a clean windshield when you arrive at the boat ramp after a long haul down the road, simply cover your windshield with a strip of plastic wrap before leaving home. Secure it well. When you arrive at the boat launch, peel the plastic wrap off and unavoidable bug splatters and road grime will peel away with it.

Cockroach Killer

Use equal parts baking soda and powdered sugar. The sugar attracts them and the baking soda kills them. Editors' Note: Cockroach hotels are another option.

Clean And Green

Save major cleaning jobs for when the boat is out of the water. When using cleaning products keep them near the center of the boat to reduce the chance of an overboard spill, and when performing bigger jobs on land, try to conduct the work as far from the water's edge as possible.

Don't Forget The Canvas

Every time you wash your boat with a soft deck brush, use the same brush and soap on the boat cover or other canvas, which will keep canvas clean for a long time.

Fog B Gone

When acrylic windscreens and opening ports become foggy looking from countless tiny scratches, buff them out with regular toothpaste (not gel). It has just the right amount of abrasives to buff out those scratches without making a bunch of new ones. All it takes is time, elbow grease, and lots of circular motion with a cotton rag. Try out on a small spot first.

Stain Magic

Magic Eraser, a Procter & Gamble Mr. Clean product, is a great tool to have on the boat. It gets rid of stubborn stains, skid marks, and streaks on just about any surface. I use a Magic Eraser pad for nonskid deck areas. You'll need to rinse your work area as you go; if it remains in contact with an area for an extended time, its "magic" will remove a waxed finish.

Can I live aboard a boat?

Yes, if you are of the right mind set and as long as everyone else who lives with you really wants to live the lifestyle as well. A boat can be a viable alternative to any land residence but the differences can be dramatic. Life aboard is not always glamorous. Face it, boats move. They’re close to neighbors. And they offer less space than land based residences. Everyone aboard should want to be there or life in these close quarters can become very difficult very quickly

What is the first thing I should do if I want to live aboard?

It might seem a bit backward, but once you have a general idea what kind of boat you’d like to call home, it is usually better to research your marina options. In some markets, there are no available slips for liveaboards and in others space is not an issue. There are too many people that end up with boats and no place to put them. Some people will even pay for a slip when it becomes available while they continue to locate and buy their boat.

The second thing you should do, after you know where you can put your boat along with any possible limitations (such as boat size) is choose your boat and clearly develop an understanding of the costs.

Can I still have my Internet access, Cable/Sat. TV, DVD, Stereo and computer?

Sure. Wired amentities such as cable and landline telephone depend on your marina. If cable companies provide service to the docks, you can receive a plethora of cable/HDTV channels, high speed internet and possibly even telephone. However, everything can also be wireless these days, and many marinas even offer wireless high speed internet (some even offer this for free). Cell phones are a popular replacement. A cell phone with a data plan can act as a modem providing you with mobile wireless internet service. TV can be received via antenna or satellite dish, mounted on the dock or deck (dock mounting requires the marina’s consent).

With AC power, everything that requires power can be brought aboard. A few cautionary notes however. A boat is limited space. Smaller/fewer pieces of gear are better. Try not to bring aboard gear that can’t be stowed properly and safely. Boats move and things fall over. Use CD/DVD storage books and get rid of or store the cases. Consider car stereos over rack stereos and boom boxes for space and durability. I have a flat computer screen (and a laptop) that doubles as a TV, but some liveaboards are using car DVD players very effectively (even for tv with a separate tv tuner). In my boat, everything (including TV/audio/computer) runs on 12 volts off of compact pieces of equipment.

Finally, when we talk about storing electronic gear, remember the lessons of condensation and moisture. If the area you store your gear can drop below the dew point, that location will get moist and can easily destroy your toys. It’s not the surface of the equipment that you need to worry about, but what is happening on the inside. Heat those areas or store elsewhere.

What to Do If Your Sailboat Goes Aground

Came across this article with some sound advice for the sailing set.

The grim instant a boat's keel bumps bottom could signal the beginning of a catastrophe or, if you're lucky, a momentary scare. The typical grounding is somewhere in between, and getting the boat back to open water usually involves a lot more skill than luck.

Generally, if the boat is going to be freed quickly the skipper has to react instantly to the initial bump. When a boat is sailing upwind, the helm should be thrown over immediately and the boat tacked. Crew weight should be moved to leeward to reduce draft and then, hopefully, the wind will nudge the boat back to open water.

If the boat is sailing downwind, the chances of getting free immediately are slim unless you happen to have bumped a very short shoal. The temptation will be to try and spin the boat 180 degrees so that it's heading back toward open water. This may work, but be forewarned that it could also damage your rudder, especially a deep, spade rudder. If the boat remains on the shoal, drop the sails immediately so that it won't be blown further into shallow water.

Whether you get free quickly or not, anytime your boat bumps bottom check the bilges for rising water. If the keel bolts were loosened and leaking badly, or if the boat was holed, man the pumps and call for assistance immediately. (Claims involving heavy damage as the result of a grounding, fortunately, are rare.)

Your next step, if you're aground, is to take soundings of the surrounding bottom so you'll know what you're up against. Use a lead line or boathook to measure water depth around the boat and, if possible, get in the dinghy and take additional soundings further away from the boat. While you're probing, find out what type of bottom the boat is stuck in. Boats aground in mud may have to be rocked from side to side to break the suction.

Whatever tactics you employ to free the boat should be based in part on the boat's design. A light displacement boat with a shoal draft can probably be shoved to deeper water by the crew (wearing shoes!). If you own a centerboard boat, merely raising the board may do the trick but be careful not to back the engine without first raising the centerboard. A boat with a full keel and a cutaway forefoot can sometimes be refloated by moving the crew forward. Fin keel boats, on the other hand, are most likely to be refloated when crew weight is moved to the rail. Which rail depends on where the water is deepest; the keel should be pointing toward deeper water. To gain another degree or two of heel, try swinging the boom out with one or two volunteers clinging to the end.

If you use your engine, make sure it's pumping water. When a boat is heeled, the intake could be out of the water or, equally as serious, sucking up sand, mud, or gunk from the bottom. Check periodically to make sure water is flowing freely from the exhaust and keep an eye on the temperature gauge.

Setting a Kedge

If you've checked water depth, shifted weight, gunned the engine, etc. and the boat remains stuck, you've got some work to do before resuming your quest (and by now it will have become a quest) to get the boat free. Setting a kedge (anchor) out in deeper water can help free the boat and will also prevent it from being nudged further up onto the shoal. If a dinghy is available, the anchor should be hung on the stern and the line flaked in the boat so it will pay out smoothly as you row. If you don't carry a dinghy, the anchor can be floated out using fenders, PFDs, or seat cushions. You'll want at least a 3:1 scope.

Sailboats typically have a multitude of winches, which gives you extra muscle kedging off. One proven trick involves running the halyard over to the anchor line and using the halyard winch to heel the boat. This is a little scary (it seems like the weight of the boat is concentrated at the masthead), but the technique has a good chance of working if the boat isn't too hard aground or you don't yank the anchor out of the bottom. When and if the keel floats off, use the engine to work the boat out to deeper water.

Snatch blocks can also be used to lead the anchor line from the bow to the largest winch aboard, which is usually at the cockpit, so that the boat can be "pulled" out to deeper water. One winch that shouldn't be used is the electric anchor windlass, which isn't designed to operate under heavy loads. A manual winch, on the other hand, will give you a terrific mechanical advantage pulling the boat out to deeper water.

If you can't pull the boat off, at least try and get the bow headed back toward deeper water. (Again, be careful if you have a spade rudder.) You may then be able to use wave action and wakes together with your engine to free the boat.

Finally, if the boat is really stuck, you can try lightening the boat. Empty the water tanks and double check the bilge to make sure it's dry. One square foot of water weighs 64 pounds. Put heavy objects--anchors, spare batteries, chubby kids, etc. into the dinghy temporarily. If you're anywhere near land, you may opt to use the dinghy to carry heavy gear ashore.

It could be that after the tide has come and gone, you'll still be stuck. You've tried everything, from heeling the boat to setting out a kedge, and the boat won't budge. More than one skipper has gone a little bonkers and started randomly tossing things overboard. This is not advised. Sometime later, in a moment of quiet reflection, you'll wish you hadn't. A better option, when all else has failed, is to call for commercial assistance (consult your BoatUS Guide to Towing Companies). And next time remember to pay more attention to your charts.

Tidal Considerations

Whenever you go aground, tide, if any, is an important consideration. If you're lucky (there's that word again), the tide will be low and rising quickly. If it's anywhere near high tide, however, you'll have to work quickly. Consult your tide tables and/or jam your boathook into the bottom next to the boat and mark the water level with tape. One old salt on the Chesapeake, with a fondness for gunkholing (and a penchant for running aground), doesn't start working in earnest to free that boat until he sees the water has risen an inch or two above the tape.

The tidal range in some areas is such that a falling tide could leave the boat high and dry, and if this is the case you'll want to put seat cushions, fenders, or PFDs, etc, against the hull to protect it from gouges. (Tip: Try stuffing the cushions or PFDs in an old sail bag so they won't get smeared with mud and bottom paint.) Things to check if the boat will be laying on its side include the battery, fuel vents, engine oil dip stick, and gas bottles. The latter should be shut off to prevent pressure from building up in hoses.

A boat resting on level ground isn't in danger of being flooded by the incoming tide. On the other hand, if it's aground on the side of an underwater hill, you'll want the keel pointing downhill so that the lower rail is away from the incoming tide.

How to Stay Safest in a Thunderstorm

We all learn in grade school that lightning seeks the highest point, and on the water that’s the top of the boat — typically a mast, antenna, Bimini top, fishing rod in a vertical rod holder or even the tallest person in an open boat. If possible, find a protected area out of the wind and drop anchor. If the boat has an enclosed cabin, people should be directed to go inside and stay well away from metal objects, electrical outlets and appliances (it’s a good idea to don life jackets too). Side flashes can jump from metal objects to other objects — even bodies — as they seek a path to water.

Under no circumstances should the VHF radio be used during an electrical storm unless it’s an emergency (handhelds are OK). Also, be careful not to grab two metal objects, like a metal steering wheel and metal railing — that can be a deadly spot to be if there’s a strike. Some boaters opt to steer with a wooden spoon and keep their other hand in a pocket if forced to man the helm during a storm, while others like to wear rubber gloves for insulation.

Protection
A conventional lightning-protection system consists of an air terminal (lightning rod) above the boat connected to a thick wire run down to an underwater metal ground plate attached to the hull — large metal objects like tanks, engines and rails are also connected. New studies suggest multiple terminals and multiple ground paths work better.

An open boat like a runabout is the most dangerous to human life during lightning storms, since you are the highest point and most likely to get hit if the boat is struck. If shore is out of reach, the advice is to drop anchor, remove all metal jewelry, put on life jackets and get low in the center of the boat. Definitely stay out of the water and stow the fishing rods.

If all goes well, the storm will blow past or rain itself out in 20 to 30 minutes. It’s best to wait at least 30 minutes until after the last clap of thunder to resume activities.

There’s a Zap For That
A smartphone ­coupled with real-time National ­Oceanic and ­Atmospheric ­Administration (NOAA) lightning tracking ­information can make a powerful tool for ­avoiding storms. Some apps will even notify you if there is a strike near any of your ­designated areas. Do an Internet search for ­“lightning app NOAA” — there are a number of iPhone and Android apps available. A little early warning could give you just the time you need to make it back to shore and seek shelter.

Hit!
Knowing what to do in a storm and having the best lightning-protection system installed on the boat is by no means a guarantee that lightning won’t strike.

The immediate checklist for a direct hit is very short:

1. Check for unconscious or injured persons first. If they’re moving and breathing, they’ll likely be OK. Immediately begin CPR on unconscious victims if a pulse and/or breathing is absent — there’s no danger of being shocked by someone just struck by lightning.
2. In the meantime, have someone check the bilges for water. It’s rare, but lightning can blow out a transducer or through-hull — or even just blow a hole in the boat. Plug the hole, get the bilge pumps running, work the bail bucket — whatever it takes to stay afloat. An emergency call on the VHF is warranted if the situation is dire. If the radio is toast, break out the flare kit.

Lightning seeks the highest point, and on the water that's the top of the boat.

If there are no injuries and no holes or major leaks below, just continue to wait it out. Once the danger has passed, check the operation of the engine and all electronics. Even a near strike can fry electronics and an engine’s electronic control unit, cutting off navigation, communication and even propulsion. Some boaters stash charged handheld VHF and GPS units and a spare engine ECU in the microwave or a tin box for this very reason. These makeshift Faraday cages have saved equipment.

Obvious damage will need to be assessed and set right. Even those lucky enough to come away completely unscathed after lighting storms, with no apparent damage should have a professional survey done just to be sure. Minor damage to through-hulls can result in slow leaks, and all manner of electrical wackiness can emerge — sometimes much later. It’s best to catch these issues right away and get that information to the insurance folks for coverage.

Is Just a Ground Plate Enough?
An immersed 1-square-foot ground plate with hard edges creates a low-resistance path for lightning current to flow through (instead of through the boat or its crew!). But expert Dr. Ewen Thomson) believes multiple rods and near-water electrodes provide better protection.

Take it from a luxury trawler owner who sustained more than $1 million in damage from a strike: “Boat insurance turns out to be the best investment we have made in the past 10 years!” he said. “We will never again grumble about writing a check for an insurance premium.”

THANKS TO BOATUS

I came across this article about Memory Tricks for us, you guys have any more to add?

Every skipper should know those little memory tools that may help keep you safe at sea.

You know, Mnemonics like “red right returning” and “red sky at night, sailors’

delight — red sky in the morning

, sailors take warning” allow boaters to recall when and where precautions are necessary.

Along with the standards, I’ll share some additional memory ditties I find

useful for associations with safer navigation.

Having trouble remembering which side of your boat has the red light? 

Port wine is red, starboard green is keen.

Keep track of navigational lights at night: Green to green or red to red,

perfect safety or go ahead.

Technically, two vertical red lights indicate the boat is dead in the water or not under command, so try prompting your memory with Red over red, this boat is dead (or the variations captain’s in

bed or in the head).

When encountering commercial fishing boats, remember Red over white, fishing

boat lights, or Green over white, trawling tonight.

Tugboats with tows have another set of lights: White over white, short tug/tow in sight, and White over white over white, long tug/tow in sight (a short tow is under 656 feet).

Sound signals take on a new urgency in crowded sea lanes (such as the approach to a busy harbor) and in bad weather. Commit these to memory:  Blast quite short, turn to port and Double blast, starboard pass.

The universal danger signal is Blast quick five to stay alive.

Weather has had its long list of generally reliable mnemonics handed down over the centuries. They include Ring around the moon means rain or snow coming soon;

Rain before seven, fine before eleven; A sudden storm lasts not three hours; The sharper the blast, the sooner ‘tis past; A rainbow afternoon, good weather soon; and Winds from the East are neither good for man nor beast.

And finally, here’s a quirky non-ryhme to remind you of who takes precedence in the vessel right of way parade:  Man-powered boats beat sail boats beat power boats and they all beat seaplanes

Safety When Boat Tubing

Boat water tubing can be extremely fun if you follow the proper boating safety tips.

Tubing behind a boat can be the equivalent of an exciting roller coaster ride. It comes with thrills and spills. Last year, tragedy struck.

It was a perfect evening on Skaneateles Lake— no wind, not a lot of boats and rather hot weather— until two members of a family were rushed to the hospital after a boating accident.

The Onondaga County Sheriff’s Office released more information on the investigation into the July 8 accident which left 8-year-old Kaelynne Driscoll critically injured with loss of limbs. Her father, Christopher Driscoll, was not seriously injured.

The two were hurt after they were hit with the boat’s propellers while water tubing. Luckily two good Samaritans were available to rescue them and get them to shore in time before this story turned fatal.

Water Tubing is fun but can also be risky if you and the boat driver don’t follow some important safety rules. Here’s a quick list of some safety tips to remember.

10 important tips for having a safe experience when riding a tube behind a boat:

Wear an approved life jacket – Also known as a personal flotation device (PFD), a PFD is just a common sense precaution.

Knowledge of your Tube – It is important to know and understand the characteristics of the tube or towable that you’ll be using. Know its limitations and its features.

Tube Rider – If you are driving the boat, know the abilities and fears of your tube rider. Don’t push the limits with their abilities and fears. Try to give them an exciting ride with the parameters of what would be enjoyable for them. You don’t want this to be a bad experience.

Boat Spotter – Rely upon a mature and alert spotter in your boat, who can watch for any obstacles in the water, and be able to communicate with your tube rider.

Know the Regulations – Be familiar with the regulations for the body of water you are boating on. Know the speed limits and other rules or policies and follow them.

Be Responsible – Be alert and sober. Having a clear mind will help you to make split-minute decisions to maintain safety.

Towing Rope – Use only a tow rope that is in good condition and secured to the boat. Use only the designated type ropes for towing a tube.

Before Starting the Boat – Always make sure that everyone and everything is clear from the prop area, and that the people in the water are clear from any entanglements with the rope or other objects in the water.

Wake Caution – Be careful when crossing wakes or other rough waters. Heading a wake or a wave at a high rate of speed can throw the boat in the wrong direction. Also take care to give your tube rider a safe ride, being cautious to not slam them hard into wakes. Strong jolts can cause back and other injuries.

Multiple Tubes and Multiple People – When you have more than one tube or riders being towed at the same time, be cautious with your speeds and turns so that they do not slam into one another causing injury.

Have safe fun, keeping an eye out for other boats. Traveling at safe speeds will produce a fun and safe experience while tubing. And when in the water, stay clear of the boat’s rear and other boats which may be in the area.

Want to get where you are going safely?

Here's an excerpt of a great article from BoatUS.

A Low-Tech Necessity

Compasses, used on boats for centuries, work because a permanently magnetized needle always points to north, irrespective of the position of the boat. Many boaters think that, in these days of modern electronic-charting aids, compasses are no longer needed. Nothing could be further from the truth. A magnetic compass requires no electricity to operate, so it could be the one piece of navigational equipment that still operates on your boat when the proverbial you-know-what hits the fan.

As the boat turns, the compass continues to point at magnetic north, and the course is shown (relative to magnetic north) in reference to a line, which represents the boat's heading. A compass has what is known as the "card," divided into 360 degrees. Thus, if the card reads 90 degrees, you will be steering a course due east; 180, due south; and so on.

For a compass to work well, it has to be correctly installed and properly adjusted. Unfortunately, on a large number of boats, the compass has been installed incorrectly. And with the ever-increasing strain on dashboard real estate, the compass is often pushed out, literally. Electrical interference from chartplotters, radios, speakers, and other electronic aids may affect compasses if they are too close to each other, so an effort should be made to keep these as far away from the main steering compass as possible. A good minimum is 12 inches.

The skipper needs to be able to easily see the main steering compass. This usually means that it must be placed directly in front of the helm position with what is known as the lubber line — two pins or some type of marking — parallel to the centerline of the boat. The skipper merely glances down to see the course being steered.

When North Is Not North

In a perfect world, a compass would always point to true north, but there are factors that make this not so. Two errors have to be accounted for: variation and deviation. Magnetic north is not the same as true north, and this difference is written on the compass rose on the chart of the area you're cruising. This difference, in degrees, between true and magnetic, is known as variation, which must be compensated for when plotting a position.

A nautical chart has two compass roses, one inside the other. The outer one always points to true north, and the inner shows, in degrees and minutes, the variation in the area, either east or west of true north. Variation, which is caused by differences in Earth's structure, differs from area to area and changes by a very small amount each year. This is annotated on the chart inside the inner compass rose. For example, variation changes from about 16 degrees west in Maine to 6 degrees in Florida and 0 degrees in Louisiana.

The other compass error that must be accounted for is deviation. Deviation refers to errors in the compass itself that cannot be adjusted out. Factors that affect deviation include nearby boat electronics, electrical wiring, metal fittings, and radio equipment. Other things, such as the boat's engine, may also affect deviation. Anything magnetic (such as speakers) placed close by will surely increase deviation. To calculate the error in the compass, it must be "swung," whereby the boat is put on several known headings that are checked against the compass reading. This is typically done by lining up a set of transit marks and comparing the boat's course to the indicated reading. Any error is corrected by adjusting the built-in magnets on the compass, which are attached to compensator rods.

To keep track of compass deviation, you'll need a deviation card, which shows the difference in degrees between the compass reading and the actual course shown on the compass. Compasses that are professionally adjusted will be supplied with a card. But if you do the adjustments yourself, you need to make up your own card. Deviation should be no more than a few degrees on each heading, while variation could be quite a bit more, depending on location. Both deviation and variation (each of which may be added or subtracted) must either be accounted for when working out the plot on the chart or when communicating a compass course to steer to the helmsman.

No-Pressure Practice

Practice steering a compass course rather than following the chartplotter. It takes some getting used to, but when you need it, you'll know how to do it. You'll have more situational awareness and less strain on your eyes. On a sailboat, an added bonus is that steering by compass can keep you attuned to the wind. As the wind shifts, you may be able to harden up or crack off a few degrees, rather than trying to follow that line on the plotter. Novice helmsmen often complain that the compass is constantly moving, but it's worth remembering that the compass does not move. It's the boat that's moving!

A properly installed and adjusted compass is a valuable navigation tool. Buy the best one your budget will allow, and take good care of it. You'll be rewarded with years of service and accurate
navigation