Steve's Marine Service Blog

Did you Know That more vessels sink at the dock while unattended than sink while underway and manned.  A common reason for this is when cockpit drains get clogged and the vessel takes on water from heavy rains or waves slapping over a low transom.  The added weight of this water lowers the vessel in the water until a through hull fitting or cut-out transom is forced under water.  Sea water then spills into the hull from the fitting or floods over the transom sinking the vessel. 

The average vessel's bilge pump system and battery capacity is not designed to deal with this amount of flooding, especially when unmanned.  The amount of flooding that occurs when a prop shaft falls out of a vessel, or from a lost sea cock, is substantial

The second most common source of sinking at the dock is snow and rain.  I had this happen to one of my clients’ boats because the self-bailing scuppers clogged from leaves. Rain followed, and followed, and followed—until they had a submarine. Also, many skippers believe that Bimini tops and canvas covers prevent water from entering the boat.  Wrong again. They slow it, but don’t stop it.  In the winter, stow them someplace dry and shrink wrap the boat.

So, more than 80 percent of the boats sink for two reasons—all of which adds up to checking the boat from time to time. Or paying the dock hand to, or your teenager who wants some extra spending money. But check it.

Your best defense against a dock side sinking is to check on your vessel often, and ensure that cockpit drains are kept clear of debris.  In addition, it is important to check and maintain all through hull fittings.  Plastic through hull fittings are notorious for degrading from UV exposure and snapping off at the slightest pressure.  If your plastic fittings leave a chalky residue when wiped with a finger, replace them now!  And take the opportunity to upgrade to a bronze fitting.  Hoses connected to above water through hull fittings should lead upwards if possible.  The higher the hose is lead above the waterline, the lower your vessel can be submerged without creating a back siphon. 

 Finally, if your vessel has a low transom (as found on many outboard powered vessels) be sure to dock it with the bow of the vessel pointing to any exposed stretch of water.  That way, storm waves will break on the bow rather than over the transom.

The Origins of Spring Cleaning

According to Wikipedia, spring cleaning refers to "the yearly act of cleaning a house from top to bottom which would take place in the first warm days of the year, typically in the spring."

It has been suggested that the origins date back to the Iranian Norouz, the Persian new year which falls on the first day of spring. Iranians continue the practice of "khooneh tekouni" which literally means "shaking the house" just before the new year.

Other cultures which participate in full house cleanings are:

1. The Jewish culture cleanses the home in preparation of Passover (I don't remember my Kessler family doing this one!!)
2. The Greek call the week before lent "Clean Week" and clean their homes thoroughly inside and out.
3. "New Years’ Cleaning" is a tradition that the Scottish practice on Hogmanay which falls on December 31st.

So no matter how long ago it started, get out there and get cleaning!

The Ides of March is a day on the Roman calendar that corresponds to 15 March. It was marked by several religious observances and became notorious as the date of the assassination of Julius Caesar in 44 BC. The death of Caesar made the Ides of March a turning point in Roman history, as one of the events that marked the transition from the historical period known as the Roman Republic to the Roman Empire

Although March was the third month of the Julian calendar, in the oldest Roman calendar it was the first month of the year. The holidays observed by the Romans from the first through the Ides often reflect their origin as new-year celebrations

NASA tracks down two lost spacecraft

You might think that losing a spaceship would be tricky, given how big they are, but NASA has announced that it’s found not one but two errant spacecraft thanks to a new telescope technique.

The craft – the tiny and dormant Indian Chandrayaan-1 spaceship, launched in 2008, and a NASA Lunar Reconnaissance Orbiter, launched in 2009  – were both orbiting the moon, which made it hard to spot them “hidden in the bright glare of the moon”, said NASA.

“Finding LRO was relatively easy as … we had precise orbit data where it was located,” said Marina Brozovic, a radar scientist at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory. “Finding India’s Chandrayaan-1 required a bit more detective work because the last contact with the spacecraft was in August of 2009.”

The scientists used a new application of interplanetary radar to detect and track small spacecraft, which could in future play a part in missions to the moon.   naked security

Launch Into Spring    Part 2

Complete safety inspection of the engine, hull, and other systems, We recommend utilizing a professional if you are not mechanically inclined.

In the Water

• Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for steady leaks and looseness. Some weeping or even an occasional drip should be evident at the engine-shaft stuffing box (not the rudder). If leaking can’t be stopped by tightening the nut, repack the gland. (Caution: Over-tightening the nut prevents leaking underway, which will burn out the packing material.)
• Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as needed. Don’t rely on a bilge pump to overcome a multitude of deck leaks.

Engines and Fuel Systems

• Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for indications of softness, brittleness, or cracking. Any that are suspect should be replaced with Coast Guard-approved J1527 hose. Check joints for leaks (or use your finger and look for stains under or around the fitting) and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps without rough edges.
• Inspect outer jacket. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean the cable must be replaced. (Note: Don’t try to remedy the problem by squirting lubricant into the cracks or wrapping duct tape around the outer jacket; most lubricants are incompatible and will only make things worse.
• Inspect all fuel-system components for leaks -- fuel tanks, fuel pumps, filters. A dry rag can be used at connections or trust your nose. Clamps should be snug and free of heavy rust.
• Clean fuel filters
• Exhaust manifolds should be removed and inspected every few years for corrosion, which could be restricting water flow.
• Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables. Loose connections can “arc,” which creates an enormous amount of heat and is a fire hazard. Studs, nuts, and washers should be copper -- not aluminum or steel. Dissimilar metals have the potential to cause galvanic corrosion. Problems ranging from a weak contact to arcing could be the result of poor washer choice. Wire brush batter terminals and fill cells with distilled water.
• Cooling hoses and fittings should fit snugly and be double-clamped. Hoses showing signs of age -- rot, stiffness, bulges, leaks, and/or cracking -- should be replaced.
• Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks.

Sailboat Rigging

• Fittings, especially swage fittings, should be inspected for cracks and rust. Wire halyards and running backstays also should be inspected for “fishhooks” and rust, which snag fingers and indicate that the standing rigging is nearing the end of its useful life. Ensure spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles.
• Remove tape on turnbuckles and lubricate threads (preferably with Teflon). Give the turnbuckle a twist or two to prevent mechanical freezing. Replace with fresh tape.
• Chainplates mounted through the deck should be caulked as necessary, preferably every two or three years. Leaks can cause problems, ranging from delaminated cores to rotted bulkheads. Hint: Remove ALL old caulking.

Launch Into Spring  Part 1

Here’s a Spring Fitting Out Safety Checklist.

Complete A safety inspection of the engine, hull, and other systems.

We recommend using the services of a qualified professional if you aren’t comfortable with the tasks.

Out of the Water

• Inspect and lubricate seacocks. Hoses and hose clamps (two at each fitting below or near the waterline) should be inspected and replaced as necessary. This is also the best time to replace gate valves, if any, with seacocks. Gate valves are prone to failure and not as reliable as seacocks. You also can’t glance at a gate valve to see that it’s been closed.

• Replace deteriorated zincs. They disintegrate and give a good indication of what would happen to vital underwater machinery if the zincs were not there. Note: If the zinc has vanished or has been reduced to powder, check the other metal surfaces, especially underwater, to ensure they didn’t also suffer from electrolysis. Zincs that disappear after less than a season indicate a serious problem with the boat’s bonding and/or electrical system. (Look first for chafed wires or battery cables, which also can cause a fire.)
• Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting, and distortion that can create excessive vibration and can loosen everything from screws and bulkheads to dental fillings. Make sure cotter pins are secure. “Tired” props, incidentally, can be rejuvenated by a machine shop. Finally, grip the prop and try moving the shaft. Looseness indicates the cutlass bearing probably needs to be replaced.
• Check to make sure the rudder stock hasn’t been bent. Also try moving the rudder: Any looseness must be corrected (the remedy depends on the type of installation).
• Inspect the hull for blisters, distortion, and stress cracks. Small “pinhead” blisters can be dried, sanded, and filled. Large blisters may require professional attention. Distortion and/or stress cracks are two other hull problems that should be addressed by a marine surveyor or repairer.
• Make sure the engine intake sea strainer is free of corrosion and is properly secured. Strainers that weren’t drained properly in the fall could’ve been bent by ice over the winter. Replace questionable parts.

Outdrives and Outboards

• Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried, and/or deteriorated spots (look in the folds). Replace suspect bellows.
• Replace deteriorated outdrive zincs.
• Check power steering and power trim oil levels. Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule or use a factory-authorized mechanic.

Control Cables

• Inspect Outer Jacket. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean the cable must be replaced. (Note: Don’t try to remedy the problem by squirting lubricant into the cracks or wrapping duct tape around the outer jacket; most lubricants are incompatible and will only make things worse.)